Photograph the part next to a ruler from the top, side and end, measure every hole and the distance between holes, and note what the part attaches to. With that, most replacement parts can be modeled without ever seeing the original.
What you need
- Calipers if you have them. An inexpensive digital pair is accurate enough. A ruler with millimeters works for larger parts.
- Your phone camera.
- The broken pieces, even if they are in several parts. Tape them together for photos.
Step 1: Photograph it with a scale
Lay the part on a plain surface with a ruler right next to it. Take one photo straight down, one from the side and one from the end. Hold the phone parallel to the part so the photo isn't skewed. Add a close-up of any threads, clips or tabs.
Step 2: Measure the outside
Measure overall length, width and height. Then measure any thickness that matters, like a wall that slides into a slot or a lip that snaps over an edge.
Step 3: Measure holes and the spacing between them
This is where most fits go wrong. Measure each hole's diameter and the center-to-center distance between holes. If a screw goes through it, note the screw size, for example M5 or 1/4-20.
Step 4: Measure what it attaches to
If the part slides onto a tube, measure the tube. If it presses into a hole, measure the hole. The mating part is usually not worn, so it is the more reliable number.
Step 5: Tell us how it broke
A crack at a thin corner or a snapped tab tells us where to add material. Reprinted parts can often be made stronger than the original in exactly the place it failed.
Tips that save a reprint
- Measure twice, in millimeters if you can.
- For round parts, measure the diameter in two directions. Worn parts go oval.
- Note if the part gets hot, wet or sits in the sun. That decides the material. See PLA vs PETG vs TPU vs ASA.
- If you are local to Kitsap County, you can bring the part to our shop in Olalla. Call first at (360) 621-1881.
Ready? Send your photos and measurements, or read more about replacement parts.